Samurai Helmet Meaning

Introduction

When we think of samurai weapons, a “katana” sword or “yari” spear are always brought up; however,  armor was just as important to a Sengoku bushi warrior. They faced enemies on the battlefield, and they also had to protect themselves from flying arrows and bullets. This is why bushi wore “kacchu”  armor as well as a “kabuto” helmet. Since a kabuto was an especially important piece of armor for protecting the head, it was made with extra care to ensure sturdiness. 

This leads to the question, how was a Japanese kabuto made and what features did they have? How did it transform over the course of history? Furthermore, for those who wish to become kabuto lovers, how does one come into possession of a kabuto? We will explain these in detail. 

What is a Samurai’s Kabuto?

For 1000 years that spanned from the mid Heian Period to the late Edo Period, kabutos were continuously made. Kacchus, known for their excellent features and artistic qualities, were created by professional armor makers or gusokushi. The basic structure of a kabuto hasn’t changed over time. Let us introduce the parts that constructed a kabuto, as well as its features. 

Kabutobachi 

This is the part considered as the body of a kabuto and is also simply referred to as “hachi”. To protect the head, a kabutobachi has a solid structure and is made mostly from iron. The shape of this particular part has changed according to different time periods; the later the period, the simpler the style.

Some examples of representative kabutobachi include “hoshi kabuto” (star kabuto) with rivets covering the hachi resembling stars, “zunari kabuto” (head kabuto) from its appearance resembling the human head, “momonari kabuto” (peach fruit kabuto) with the shape of the rivets resembling peaches, and “suji kabuto” (muscle kabuto) with vertical lines like muscles.

Others were more peculiar in shape such as  “saigabachi” which gives off a linear and angular impression, “namazuonari kabuto” (catfish head kabuto) with a tall hachi that resembles the fin of a fish, and finally the “ecchu zunari kabuto” which was invented by Hosokawa Tadaoki with attention on features alone. 

Shikoro

A shikoro is a part composed of small, flat iron plates attached with a string and hangs from the back of a kabuto. This is to protect oneself from rear attacks, and the name differs according to the number of attached plates. 3 pieces would make a “sanmai kabuto”, and 5 pieces would make a “gomai kabuto”. When placed down, the plates alternately overlapped with one another which gave it excellent storability. 

Mabisashi

A mabisashi is a visor for the forehead and is shaped like the brim of a hat. This portion of a kabuto has been used for a long time since kabutos with masbisashi were excavated as funeral goods from ancient burial mounds. The purpose of a mabisashi is to protect the eyes from direct sunlight or strong rain and wind. Furthermore, there are 3 types of mabisashi; “tsukemabisashi” which has rivets hammered onto the hachi, “demabisashi” with eyebrows sticking out downwards from the hachi, and “chokumabisashi” which protrudes vertically from the hachi. Out of the three, the “tsukemabisashi” is the most old-fashioned kabuto characterized by large antlers or horns on top. 

Fukikaeshi  

A fukikaeshi is attached to both sides of a kabuto and protects the sides of the face. Old-fashioned kabutos which went with an ōyoroi (large armor)  also had a large fukikaeshi with delicate and beautiful designs. From this we are able to tell that a fukikaeshi served the purpose of displaying the craftsmanship of the kacchu maker. As time went by, they became simplified and smaller in size, and by the Azuchi-momoyama Period it had become just a decorative part of a kabuto. 

Menhō

A menhō protects the entire area or lower half of the face not covered by the kabuto. It was for protection from flying arrows and defense from sword attacks, but it was also for covering the face and intimidating the opponent. The name varies according to the amount of area it covers.

A “sōmen” covers the entire face, a “menhō” covers from the nose and below, a “hanhō” covers just the chin, and “hatsumuri” covers the forehead and the cheeks. 

Tatemono 

A tatemono is a decorative part that determines the impression of a kabuto. There were variations of a tatemono depending on the place it was attached to such as a “maedate” attached to the front, a “wakidate” attached to the sides, a “zudate” attached to the top, or “ushirodate” attached to the back. Until the Kamakura and Muromachi Periods, there were more kabutos which had an incorporated tatemono. This gradually changed over time with tatemono becoming detachable to relieve impact.

On a side note, tatemonos of famous generals include Date Masamune’s “mikazuki” (crescent), Tokugawa Ieyasu’s “shida” (fern), and Toyotomi Hideyoshi’s “barin” (iris). Bushis had a special attachment to their tatemonos.  For example, some used “bonji” (Sanskrit characters), or “tokko” (metalic mallet used in rituals) in repect to the gods of their beliefs, or used “Tonbo”  as a motif as they were considered “kachimushi” or lucky bug that brought victory. By understanding the meaning behind a tatemono, we can get in touch with a bushi’s feelings and beliefs. 

The History of Samurai’s Helmet

Next, let’s look into the history of a kabuto, its transitions in particular. Kabutos can be traced back to the Kofun Period. There is the possibility that kabutos were used before then; however, they are found among the funeral goods from ancient burial grounds along with haniwas in the shape of warriors. From this we can understand how a kabuto was an important piece of armor.

The kabuto of the Kofun Period are considered as the prototype of the kabutos which were to be worn by warriors later on and seemed to have been strongly influenced by overseas. A “shoukakutsuki kabuto” had the forehead portion sticking out like a bow of a ship, and gives a very a strong impression. On the other hand, a “mabisashi tsuki kabuto” has a semi-circular shaped hachi with an openwork mabisashi. It is an extremely graceful looking kabuto.

It was common for these kabutos to be used as a set along with kacchu that was called “tankō” or “keikō”, until the beginning of the Heian Period. Later on in the mid to the end of the Heian Period is when bushis finally begin to make an appearance in history.

As it was a bushi’s job to fight in battle, practical kacchu with strong protection were created. Along with an ōyoroi emerged the “hoshi kabuto”. This kabuto was made by firmly attaching thick iron plates by quite a number of rivets, making it very heavy and almost impossible for a bushi to run around on the battlefield. However, battles back then were mainly cavalry battles, and arrows were flown at each other from a distance. This led to the development of the “kasagake” skill which is to shoot an arrow from horseback. Additionally, there was a small hole called “tehen no ana” on the very top of a kabuto. This hole was to let “motodori” or tied hair outside making the kabuto more stable on the head, but the hole became smaller as time passed, because there were situations where enemies aimed their arrows into this hole. It is also said that from this reason, hair was let loose to be worn down. 

As time passed, cavalry battles between individuals shifted to group battle tactics. Firm and heavy ōyoroi were replaced by more light and practical kacchu. Kabutos also transformed from the original “hoshi kabuto” into a “suji kabuto”. In order to make the kabutos lighter, the iron plates decreased in size as well as the rivets that put them together. This is what made the cuffs of the iron plates appear like muscles, a characteristic of the “suji kabuto”. However, the suji kabuto had its flaws. By attaching 200 iron plates at maximum, the kabuto lost its firmness and durability and was frequently damaged.

Then in the Sengoku Period, the “zunari kabuto” became the most commonly used kabuto. This kabuto used only 3 to 5 iron plates in order to increase its firmness. Also, it was possible to create this kabuto at a comparable lost cost; therefore, it was suited for mass production. Giving a rounded shape to the kabuto helped prevent spear attacks, and alleviated the impact of bullet collision. In the process of making a lighter kabuto, larger parts such as a fukikaeshi became as small as possible, allowing combat without any restrictions of movement.

In the Azuchi-Momoyama Period, western armor was imported and this was remodeled applying the Japanese taste into a “nanban gusoku”. Similarly, kabutos were also remodeled and referred to as “nanban kabuto”. Because they were rather rare and expensive, it is known that only a small number of daimyos wore them.

Eventually, with the Edo Period there came an end to all battles, and kacchu and kabuto were no longer required. However, this did not make a difference to the fact that weapons and armors were a bushi’s heart and soul, and people continued to make kabutos even after times of war were over. Instead of practical reasons, they were made as art objects of grace and beauty. 

Vintage style kacchu and kabutos were favored, and the styles of former ōyorois were once again valued. Schools of kacchu makers including “Haruta School”, “Myōchin School” and “Saotome School” competed against one another, enhancing each other’s skills. 

How to use a Samurai’s Kabuto

Now, how were kabutos used in the battlefield or in times of peace? When there were no battles, kabutos along with kacchus and “kote” (gauntlets) were kept in a large storage chest called “yoroibitsu”. To avoid them from rusting and damaging their appearance as they were all made from iron, they were often taken out of the chest to be exposed to outside air.

During battles, kabutos were carried in the yoroibitsu, but this was only the case for warriors of high class. Lower class warriors went to the battlefield with their “dōmaru” (style of kacchu worn by low class warriors) already on, and their kabutos tied to their backs. Since they had a lot of equipment to carry around, they wore most of them while marching. It is said that when Hashiba Hideyoshi (his former name) defeated Akechi Mitsuhide in the Chūgoku Retaliation, he got a ship to carry all the kacchus and kabutos to reduce the burden of the soldiers. 

Even when warriors arrived on the battlefield, they did not have to wear their kabutos straight away. There was time for observing the enemy’s next move and making battleplans. They first got dressed into “kogusoku” which stood for wearing all equipment except for kabuto and kacchu. Although dressed very lightly, they were able to bear arms in the need of immediate action.

Once the battle began, they wore their kabutos. A kabuto, as you may have guessed from all the explanations we provided so far, is very heavy and must be stabilized. By applying a cushioning material made from leather with a technique called “ukebari”, an empty space was created in between the hachi and head. This prevented the head from suffering the weight of the kabuto, and it helped with bearing any impact. Additionally, the strings of the kabuto were also stabilized by positioning them underneath the ukebari by wrapping them around in rolls, and attached by rivets. Rings were made for the strings to go through and tied underneath the chin. This made it possible to secure the head in a stable position.

During an attack on the battlefield, warriors did not face the front. To protect themselves from the enemies’ bullets and arrows, they kept their faces rather low and looked through the mabisashi to see ahead. Arrows which were projected from a distance would have flown in an arch so in this case, they would have kept their faces straight down. The main cause of death on the battlefield was getting hit by projectile weapons which is in a way not so different from today.

In the Edo Period, the usage of kabuto changed drastically. When a head of a household changed, people had a new set of kacchu and kabuto made, or for “Tango no Sekku” (Boy’s Festival),  “chigo yoroi” (children’s armor) were decorated to wish for the healthy growth of boys. In a period of peace, their practical purpose as armor was gone and instead they became art objects and commemorative gifts. 

How do you make a kabuto or come into possession of one?

Have you ever wished of making your very own kabuto, or owning one? Next, we will be explaining how to make a kabuto as well as how to purchase one.

How to make a real Kabuto

For those of you who want to own a kabuto or just even try one on, here is “how to make a real kabuto” explained. To purchase a wearable armor, it would cost several hundred thousand yen; however, if you were to make one on your own, it would only cost you a fraction. Deciding on which parts to combine as well as the measurements are difficult for a beginner, so it is best if you make one while receiving tips and advice from an armor maker. For example, there are Kacchu Production clubs all over Japan where you can learn the skills and actually get involved in creating a kacchu. 

As for the procedures involved in making a kabuto, it all begins with cutting out the parts and opening holes. Use iron cutting scissors and cut the pieces of iron sheets according to the model. Be very careful when removing the burrs. All this requires quite a lot of power so it is probably better if the iron plates are extra thin. 

Then, we will bring out some roundess to the kabutobachi part. To achieve the shape of a kabuto, there is the need to hit the iron plates about 100 times or so. If you were to make tiny adjustments, it would take you forever so we can really see the amount of effort the ancient armor makers put into their work. A suji kabuto and kawari kabuto (the peculiar shaped ones) are very hard to work with because of the tiny details, so it is best if you start with a simple zunari kabuto. 

Once the hachi is completed, let’s punch holes into the various parts and attach them together. The mabisashi and fukikaeshi will be placed by using copper rivets but a shikoro being a moveable part should be attached using a basting stitch first. Keep checking the overall appearance and make any alterations if necessary.

Then we will get onto the painting process. Remove the basting stitch, and cover the holes by inserting bamboo sticks. Apply a rust-proofing agent, use sandpaper to brush up the surface, then apply another layer of rust-proofing agent. Once it is dry, apply some “kokuso” (paste made from combining wood powder and metal) as a preparation before applying Japanese lacquer. Wait for about 2 days before it completely dries.

Now here is the hard part. When the “kokuso “ is dry, polish the surface to get rid of any unevenness once again with sandpaper. Add another layer of “kokuso”, wait for it to dry, then polish again. Repeat this procedure 7 times.

When all this is completed we can finally paint the Japanese lacquer. Japanese lacquer is all about  the finishing coat. Repeat the procedure of painting, drying, then polishing for 3 times and this should finally give the surface a luster needed for a beautiful outcome. As a finishing touch, polish with compound polishing and then apply wax to the surface. Put the “ito odoshi” (string) through the shikoro, and your very own kabuto is complete. 

How to make a paper kabuto 

Next, we will explain how to make a paper kabuto. Compared to an iron kabuto, it can be made with very little cost and time. Although it is paper, it needs to be quite firm so using cardboard might be another option you might want to consider. There are websites that show the measurements of each part of a kabuto so please check them out.

For the base of the hachi, use a simple safety helmet with a smooth surface. Since we will be opening holes for securing the parts onto the helmet, you might want to have an electric drill at the ready. When you have cut out all the different parts, paint them in the color of your choice. If you are sensitive to smell, we suggest you use water base paint. Paint the helmet the same color. You will not be needing any rivets to attach the parts together because we will be using adhesive glue and strings. Since a helmet is already in the shape of a “zunari kabuto”, we do not have to make major changes. You can even make a design of your own if you would like, so give it a shot.

How do get a Kabuto

Next, we would like to explain how to get a ready-made kabuto. We would like to recommend this to people who go for the real deal.  

Purchasing a replica on EC  

There are quite a number of kabutos on EC websites and internet auctions. Among them are kabutos which can be considered antique art objects and even wearable replicas. If you want to wear one in a matsuri festival or a samurai parade, we would recommend wearing a replica that is made to look just like the original. Replicas are made from a wide variety of materials from iron to plastic and FRP, so you can choose the material type of your choice. 

Purchasing a kabuto at a Japanese antique store 

If you are going to purchase a kabuto to decorate your home, it would be best to buy one from an antique store in Japan. You can see the actual kabuto and check the product’s origin. 

Although it might cost you a lot of money, it might be quite fun to find hidden treasures in the antique store such as a kabuto directed from the warehouse of an ancient merchant, or a kabuto created by a famous armor maker, Myochin. 

Summary of samurai helmet

It can be said that kabutos are unquestionably an accomplishment of Japanese culture and art. The traditional craft which has developed over 1000 years still shows us the use of excellent techniques.

The history of Japan is the history of battle, and it seems that all the difficulties our predecessors faced and their efforts for improvement are summarized into this piece of amazing armor called kabuto.