A journey to reflect on the route where Hijikata Toshizō and Saitō Hajime ran through!
In the midst of the Boshin War expanding to Tohoku, this castle was the stage for its first battle, the Battle of Shirakawa. The wooden reconstructed three-story turret has a powerful presence like a castle tower.
The Boshin War, which began in Keio 4 (1868), the year after the restoration of imperial rule. The new government forces, which occupied Edo, turned their attention to Tohoku to subdue the Aizu clan, their biggest target, and other forces of the old shogunate. The opening battle was the Battle of Shirakawa in Keio 4 spring (leap April).
From the current Tohoku Main Line Shirakawa Station, about 500m north, there is Shirakawa Komine Castle on a hill called Kominegaoka. This castle was the stage for fierce battles between the two armies from April to July, and all the buildings inside the castle were burned down. However, in Heisei 3, the three-story turret was faithfully reconstructed in wood based on Edo period documents. The figure towering over the high stone walls boasts a grandeur comparable to other castle towers.
After occupying Shirakawa Komine Castle, the new government forces continued to advance. The Aizu clan and other old shogunate forces tried to stop them at Bonari Pass, but they couldn’t withstand the fierce attack of the new government forces and were forced to fight under Aizu Tsuruga Castle (Aizuwakamatsu Castle). One month after the siege, on September 22nd, the Aizu clan surrendered and the war in Tohoku ended.
A temple in Nanoka-machi, a castle town in Aizu, where Saitō Hajime and his wife were put to rest. Inside the temple grounds are an Aizu East Army cemetery and a single remnant of Tsuruga Castle that was relocated in the early Meiji era.
The buildings of Tsuruga Castle were restored in recent years, but a three-story turret that used to be inside the castle was relocated and still exists at Amida Temple in the castle town. Inside its grounds is an Eastern Army cemetery where soldiers of the old shogunate army who died in battle are buried.
“It’s not justice to abandon Aizu”
Saitō Hajime of the former Shinsengumi, who kept fighting and said this, died in Taisho 4 (1915) and rests at this Amida Temple. Injured in the Battle of Utsunomiya Castle in April, Hijikata Toshizō left the front line and it was Saitō Hajime who took command of Shinsengumi in battles at Shirakawa and under Aizuwakamatsu Castle.
A famous hot spring in Aizu where Hijikata is said to have healed his foot injury from the Boshin War. As his wound healed, he is said to have swum directly into the river.
On one hand, Hijikata who was injured took care of his recovery at Shimizuya Ryokan under Aizu Castle but it is said that he took a cure at Higashiyama Onsen under Wakamatsu Castle. Also nearby is Tennyoji Temple where there is a grave of Kondō Isami who was executed on the outskirts of Edo. It is said that Hijikata built it while remembering his deceased friend Kondō during his recovery. The historical sites remaining throughout Fukushima Prefecture tell us about thoughts of Shinsengumi and samurai from the old shogunate army who kept fighting in the Boshin War.
At Tennyoji Temple founded in the 15th century behind it there is a grave where it is said that Hijikata temporarily buried Kondō Isami’s hair etc here. Every year on April 25th, which is his death anniversary, a graveside ceremony is held.
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